HIGHWAY HEROES
Dallas Morning News
August 15, 2004

Text Version


HIGHWAY HEROES
Texas' roadside attractions mix wonder and mirth

Story and photography by CHRISTOPHER GRONLUND / Special Contributor


There's nothing that says summer more than a roadside, fiberglass dinosaur.

Texas has that – and much more. So forget the in-car DVD theater system. Here are a few roadside attractions that will make any Lone Star road trip a classic.

When coyotes dream

There isn't a lot to see in West Texas, unless you're a fan of wide-open land and oil pumps. The region needed something to break up the long drive toward Big Bend, and the town of Fort Stockton had the solution: a really big roadrunner named Paisano Pete.

How big is Paisano Pete? He's so big that Wile E. Coyote would take one look and hang up his rocket-powered roller skates. At 11 feet tall and 22 feet long, Pete was the largest roadrunner in the world until New Mexico one-upped Texas by constructing a larger bird made out of garbage. Seriously.

Location: Dickinson Boulevard and Main Street, in Fort Stockton. Hours: 24 hours, seven days a week (Pete lives at a busy intersection in town). Admission: free. Contact: 1-800-336-2166.

Look on my works ...

When Percy Bysshe Shelley wrote the poem "Ozymandias," he probably never thought those words would be immortalized on a marker near a giant pair of legs in Amarillo.

A piece of classic pop art commissioned by Amarillo helium tycoon Stanley Marsh 3, the legs are one of the strangest attractions anywhere. A plaque provides a false, but funny history of Shelley's traveling across the Panhandle on horseback and how he came upon the ruins and penned his immortal sonnet on the spot.

Visitors are told that there was once a giant face near the legs, but students from Lubbock damaged it after losing a sporting event to Amarillo.

Location: corner of Interstate 27 and Sundown Lane. Hours: 24 hours, seven days a week. Admission: free.

One big Texan

The Sam Houston Statue on Interstate 45 in Huntsville is so big that you can see it for miles. The giant white head and torso poke above the tree line like some B-movie science experiment gone awry. At 67 feet, Sam looks three times that height.

Construction on "Big Sam" began in 1992 when David Adickes, a Houston painter, was commissioned to create the Giant of I-45. Using his background in math and physics, Mr. Adickes spent two years converting a 6-feet-6 life-size Sam Houston statue into the towering sculpture along the highway. If you can't stop for photos, Sam is also one of the best attractions in the state that can be appreciated as you zip by at 65 mph. But alas, it isn't Texas' tallest statue. The Dallas Zoo's giraffe gets that honor, thanks to its outstretched tongue.

Location: I-45 in Huntsville (exit 112 from the north and 109 from the south). Hours: 24 hours, seven days a week. Admission: free. Contact: Huntsville Chamber of Commerce, 1-800-289-0389.

Oui, oui

Come on, admit it – you always thought the Eiffel Tower looked like a fancy oil derrick, right? What better tribute to that Paris landmark than making one of our own ... with a giant red cowboy hat on top. Give it boots and arms, and it could tag-team with Sam Houston, in Huntsville, taking down giant statues from coast to coast.

Constructed in the mid '90s by the local ironworkers' union, the replica in Paris, Texas, was the second-largest Eiffel Tower in the world until an even-larger replica went up in Las Vegas.

Location: corner of Jefferson Road and Collegiate Drive (beside Love Civic Center). Hours: 24 hours, seven days a week. Admission: free. Contact: 903-784-2501; www.paristexas.com.

Cadillac, Cadillac

On a flat plot of land in the Panhandle sits what some say is not just the best roadside attraction in the state or country, but on the entire planet: Cadillac Ranch. Ten classic Cadillacs are half-buried nose first alongside Interstate 40 west of Amarillo.

In 1974, after scouring the Panhandle and buying unwanted Cadillacs, a San Francisco art collective called the Ant Farm sank the 10 classic cars into a dusty wheat field on the outskirts of town. They were funded by Stanley Marsh 3 (the magnate believes "Stanley Marsh III" sounds too fancy), who commissioned the work and provided the space for this defining piece of Americana.

This year Cadillac Ranch turns 30. The Cadillacs (models from 1949 to 1963) and the site have seen some changes. In 1997, the site was moved a few miles west of its original location to escape Amarillo development.

No matter what other changes Cadillac Ranch faces in upcoming decades, one thing's for sure: It will always stand as a testament to humanity's love of the odd and will remain one of the coolest (and strangest), things you'll ever see out on the open road.

Location: south side of I-40, near the Arnot Road exit in Amarillo. Hours: 24 hours, seven days a week. Admission: free. Details: www.libertysoftware .be/cml/cadillacranch/crmain.htm.

They stand among us

Nothing says "Stop here!" quite like a fiberglass dinosaur. In the '50s and '60s, dinosaur sculptures went up like strip malls did during the '70s and '80s. From gas stations to hotels, restaurants to national parks, giant lizards were a surefire way to get the kids to pester mom and dad enough to pull over.

Dinosaur Valley State Park in Glen Rose gives visitors two reasons to pull over: a 45-foot-tall Tyrannosaurus rex and a 70-foot-long Apatosaurus.

The sculptures, made for Sinclair Oil by sculptor Luis Paul Jonas for the 1964 World's Fair in New York City, were donated to the Texas Department of Parks and Wildlife in the early '70s. Since then, there's no telling how many kids have posed before the two beasts or been told to stop climbing on the T. rex's tail (despite the fence and the "Keep Out" sign). And, oh yeah, you can see some real dinosaur footprints in the park.

Location: From U.S. Highway 67 in Glen Rose, take FM 205 to Park Road 59 until it ends at the park. Hours: 8 a.m. to 10 p.m. year round. Admission: $5 for adults. Contact: 254-897-4588; www.tpwd.state.tx.us/park/dinosaur.

Christopher Gronlund is a freelance writer in Grapevine.

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D-FW GEMS
Seven attractions in our own back yard

You don't need to hit the road to find great roadside attractions. Here are favorites near home.

Want fries with that, comrade? Standing in the parking lot of a Dallas burger joint is a reminder of the good ol' days of proletarian revolutions: a life-size statue of Vladimir Lenin, forged in Odessa, Russia. While Vlad looks ready and raring to bring communism to the Metroplex, a plaque says it all: "America Won." 5702 Lovers Lane, in front of Goff's Charcoal Hamburgers.

Chromassic Park. What better way to pay tribute to chrome car bumpers than welding them together and creating giant dinosaurs? The grounds of the Dallas Museum of Natural History are home to a 20-foot-tall T. rex, plus a triceratops and stegosaurus. Fair Park. Contact: 214-421-3466; www.dallas dino.org/exhibits/chromo saurs.asp

The gang's all here! The rooftop of Strokers Icehouse sports almost a dozen sculptures, including a 6-foot-tall anthropomorphic hotdog, dinosaurs, a likeness of the Blues Brothers, and owner Rick Fairless' favorite piece, a deranged clown driving a tiny pedal car. 9304 Harry Hines. Contact: 214-357-0707; www.strokersdallas.com /Strokers/strokers.html.

Lizard in our back yard. There's a lizard in Grauwyler Park, covered in colorful tiles, no less. "Iggy," the 9-foot-long iguana, was constructed from foam, wire and concrete by Dallas artist Carolann Haggard. It's a photo op just begging to happen. Harry Hines Boulevard at Hines Place, across from the Grauwyler Recreation Center.

Muffled art. He looks like a countrified version of Mad M agazine icon Alfred E. Newman. He's really tall and holding a giant muffler. And for over 30 years, he's stood outside Ken's Mufflers. 3537 W. Northwest Highway, across from Bachman Lake.

Winner by a tongue. The giraffe at the entrance to the Dallas Zoo is a tongue taller than the Sam Houston statue in Huntsville. Over 3 feet long, the tongue makes the 67.5-foot-tall giraffe the tallest statue in the state. 650 South R.L. Thornton Freeway. Contact: 214-670-5656; www.dal laszoo.org.

Worth the drive. Fort Worth wouldn't be Fort Worth without its jackalope. See a gigantic version of nature's strangest creation since the platypus. On top of R.L.B. Sales and Leasing, corner of Camp Bowie and Bryant Irvin Road.